Broc Cellars Sogi 2013
Wine: Broc Cellars
Region: Central Coast, California
Grapes: Pinot Noir, Gamay
Vines: Sustainable, Organic, Biodynamic
I have a huge crush on Broc Cellars. Everything I've tasted has blown my mind. The Pig&Vine Thanksgiving 2015 lineup included the Love Red, a blend of carignan, valdigiué and syrah, which prompted a reader to comment, "Tried Broc Sogi yet? Curious to hear your thoughts-" I finally spotted a bottle last week at Keife & Co. There's a sizable list of wines before this one, including a surprisingly sensuous cabernet franc, but this turned me on too high to wait. Front of the line it goes.
Chris Brockway makes his wines in downtown Berkley, California. The grapes are purchased from organic and biodynamic vineyards that express site-specific qualities, and all wines are fermented with native yeasts. The alcohol on this one is a lovely, respectable 13.5%. With 70% pinot noir and 30% gamay, the "Sogi" is a classic Bourgogne Passetoutgrain blend, like the Domaine Chevillon I wrote about early last year. I've always loved this style of wine and the Sogi, though not a native Burgundian, expresses the balance of ripe cherry fruit and earthy layers that are so appealing. The wine has a garnet color with brick hues at the rim, suggesting age, or what I typically expect in a wine with some bottle age. The gamay is the first thing you notice, bright cherry aromas almost sweet in perception. That hits the palate with an energetic "Hi friend!" Then it gets a tad cerebral, with a solid backbone of acid and velvety tannins. Darker berry notes come through, and the finish is long. I savored every mouthful.