Domaine Trotereau Quincy 2014
Wine: Domaine Trotereau
Region: Quincy, Loire Valley
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Vines: Lutte Raisonnée/Sustainable
Quincy [can see] is one of the oldest appellations in France, having earned its AOC status in 1936, second only to Châteauneuf-du-Pape. At one time, not in my lifetime but in my mother's, Quincy was an en vogue, high quality wine region known for its ripe sauvignon blanc, minus the grassy notes, and with more body than Sancerre to the east. Today, it's a foreign word for many and too often a stranger on the shelf. The few wines coming out of the area, with about 500 acres under vine, are mostly co-op productions aiming for the steely sav blanc our American palates have come to expect. But this, my friends, is something special, a harken back to the good old days of wine with personality that express a sense of place.
Leave it to importer Kermit Lynch to find one of - if not the last - holdouts producing traditional Quincy. Pierre Ragon has been making Quincy since he took over the estate's vineyards in 1973. He produces two cuvées, the one here from vines planted between 1985 and 2008, and a vieilles vignes (old vines) from plants ranging in age from 1905 to 1943. Needless to say, I'm on the lookout for a bottle of the latter. The Domaine Trotereau Quincy 2014 is distinctively sauvignon blanc on the nose but so full and luscious on the palate I wondered if it spent time sur lie. If so, I couldn't find that detail. It was fermented with natural yeasts in stainless steel and enamel-lined tanks. Ripe pear on the nose and palate followed by a zingy acidity, melon flavors and flint. My notes say, "zip and lust at the same time. So freaking delicious!" What more could you want?