Le Sot de l'Ange Rouge 'G'
Wine: Le Sot de l'Ange
Region: Touraine Azay Le Rideau, Loire Valley
Vines: Biodynamic (Demeter certified)
The young Quentin Bourse makes wine from 12 hectares of biodynamically certified vines in Azay Le Rideau that he took over from a friend in 2013. I first discovered his chenin blanc 'Sec Symbole' at N7, the curtained French inspired Bywater restaurant with a mostly natural wine menu and a disdain for publicity (who the owners are remains a secret). The chenin was delicate and delicious with honeysuckle perfume and ripe melon fruit in such beautiful balance that the producer was instantly listed high on my Yes, please! list. It's also the one that made me take note of importer Selection Massale. The small company focuses on natural wines farmed organically and biodynamically in France and Swabia, a loosely defined border that encompasses the southwestern German provinces Württemburg and Baden. With their hand-drawn pruning shears emblem conspicuously placed on each back label, they're easy to spot on the shelf, and I've been looking ever since. They're also the geniuses who bring in Les Capriades pét-sec. I picked up this grolleau at Bacchanal a few weeks ago.
The Sot de l'Ange, roughly translates to 'fool the angel'. There's a story there, I'm sure. Bourse makes small lots of chenin blanc, gamay, grolleau, côt (malbec) and cabernet sauvignon. The Rouge 'G' that we have here is grolleau 'sans soufre' made in a ridiculously quaffable style that'll take a chill if you're so inclined. But it's fault-free and drinks just as easy at room temp. Bright and juicy, light in color, cool yet undemanding, it's as friendly as a *Tri Epsilon pledge who's a closeted art student . It was the perfect accompaniment to a recent art installation project where I arranged a few Hipstamatic prints on the wall above my couch.
*Tre Epsilon is not a real organization, best I can tell, but the Tri Ep house is the central setting in the 1952 pulp fiction novel "Spring Fire", which I've been reading, and the main character is a new pledge and impossibly innocent when the story begins.